Horseradish Crusted Salmon with Beets and Potatoes

Braised beet greens make a perfect bed for a piece of fish, surrounded by baby beets and potatoes.  The fish is lightly cooked on one side then turned and coated with a thin layer of spicy horseradish and Dijon mustard.  Lightly broiled to set the crust, the fish comes out flakey and moist.  Set over the juicy greens, it’s a healthy, flavorful way to use up every bit of your beautiful, seasonal produce.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 45 minutes

Serves 2

Ingredients:

½ bunch (3-4) baby golden beets

½ bunch (3-4) baby red beets

1 Tbsp. white vinegar

1 bunch beet greens & stems, thoroughly washed & separated

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 ½ cups water

6-8 baby potatoes

2 4.5-ounce salmon filets, 2” thick

1 Tbsp. Horseradish

1 Tbsp. Dijon

2-3 sprigs Dill

1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

Technique:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil with the white vinegar.  Add beets and cook at a medium boil until knife tender (about 25-35 minutes).  Allow beets to cool enough to handle.  Use two layers of paper towel to rub the skin off the beets, keeping the two colors separate.

o Wash your hands quickly to avoid staining.

• In a large, heavy-bottomed sauté pan over medium heat, combine olive oil and beet stems.  Sweat for 5 minutes, reduce heat to low, add water and cover.  Cook for 10-12 minutes, then add greens and mix well.  Cover and cook for another 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until greens are tender.  Remove to a shallow pan and refrigerate.  Reserve any liquid.

• Cover potatoes in cold salted water, bring to a boil and cook until nearly tender (8-10 minutes).  Cut in half lengthwise.

• Preheat the broiler on low.

• Heat an oven-proof sauté pan on medium heat; add potatoes (cut side down) and seasoned salmon filets.  Cook for 3-4 minutes and turn filets.

• Combine the Dijon and horseradish; add half to the top of each filet in an even layer, using a fork to pat into place.  Transfer the pan to the broiler and cook for 4-5 minutes, until the crust is lightly golden and the fish is warm in the center (120˚).

• Remove fish and potatoes from the pan and hold warm.  Return the pan to the stovetop over medium heat.  Add beets and braised greens to reheat (or microwave 1 minute).

• Make a bed of beet greens slightly larger than the fish filets on each plate, place the salmon on top, garnished with dill; arrange the beets and potatoes around.  Add a splash of red wine vinegar to the liquid from the beet greens; whisk in 1T olive oil and drizzle over the fish and vegetables.

Baby Beets, Braised Beet Greens and Horseradish: Two Ways

I read a New York Times article earlier this summer about beet greens and how it’s so tragic when people ask the farmer stalls to cut off the tops to take up less room in the bag.  The article’s author suggested chopping the greens up and serving them as a salad, but personally, I find them too tough and bitter to eat raw.  However, when lightly braised, the stems and leaves get completely tender and taste like a cross between swiss chard and kale.  Horseradish is a natural pairing for beets, with an acidic spicy kick to contrast their sweet, earthy flavor.  Beets are a vegetable that require some work to prepare but they hold up well for a few days once cooked, so make a couple bunches at a time and try both of these delicious dishes for the work of one.

Horseradish Crusted Salmon with Beets and Potatoes

Smoked Trout and Beet Salad with Horseradish Vinaigrette

Basil Fusilli with Pistou, Peas and Romano Beans

Pâte au pistou is a staple in my kitchen, and I am constantly surprising myself at how many ways there are to reinvent it.  The season is peaking in the northeast for all varieties of beans and peas, and what could make pasta more guilt-free than market-fresh veggies? Spring garlic and a big bunch of basil coat the fusilli, dotted with Romano beans, English and sugar snap peas.  Prepped in advance or thrown together at the last minute, this simple pasta can be served hot or cold, making it perfect for a group or even as leftovers.  Simple et bon!

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Serves 3-4

Ingredients:

8-ounces basil fusilli

1 bunch basil, washed and stems removed

1 Tbsp. pine nuts

1 clove spring garlic, chopped

1 pinch fleur de sel

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ pound English peas

¼ pound sugar snap peas

¼ pound Romano beans

Technique:

• Blanche basil in salted, boiling water for 30 seconds then chill in an ice bath.  Drain thoroughly, squeezing out all excess water, and finely chop.  Combine garlic and a pinch of fleur de sel in a mortar and pestle; grind to a paste.  Add pine nuts and basil, mashing finely; continue to grind while streaming in olive oil.

o Or combine all ingredients in a blender and stream in olive oil while blending.

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil and cook the pasta until firm but tender.

• Bring a second pot of salted water to a boil.  Blanche the English peas for 1 minute and chill in ice water.  Blanche the snap peas for 3-4 minutes and chill in ice water.  Blanche the Romano beans for 4-5 minutes and chill in ice water.

• Cut snap peas in half, and Romano beans in 1 ½” pieces.

• Toss the pasta and pistou until well coated.  Add the beans and peas, season to taste with salt and pepper.

Sugar Snap Peas with Garlic and Chili Flakes

A few weeks ago, Dr. France and I were invited to a bar-be-que in Brooklyn and despite all the heavenly cheeses, artisanal breads and charcuterie on the buffet, it was the simplest dish on the table that I couldn’t stop munching: blanched sugar snap peas with fleur de sel.  Why hadn’t I thought of this?  It’s like edamame but you get to eat the whole pod.  These days, peas of all varieties blanket the Greenmarket tables in Union Square, so I picked up a bag of plump sugar snaps and went to work.  I elaborated slightly on the original inspiration, and after a quick wash and trim, tossed the blanched peas with olive oil, finely minced spring garlic and chili flakes.    So basic, so easy, and so addictive!

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 5 minutes

Serves 2-3

Ingredients:

½ pound sugar snap peas, washed and trimmed

1 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

1 clove spring garlic, finely minced

¼ tsp. chili flakes

fleur de sel

Technique:

• Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.  Blanche peas for 4-5 minutes until tender but firm.  Chill in a large ice bath until completely cold.  Drain and dry peas on paper towels.

• Toss peas with olive oil, chili flakes and fleur de sel to taste.

o *If serving hot right away, simply skip the ice bath and continue as directed.  If serving hot at a later point, chill and reheat as directed below. 

• To reheat: heat a sauté pan over medium; add olive oil and peas; cook for 10-15 seconds before adding garlic, chili flakes and fleur de sel.  Toss until hot and serve.

Baby Rib Lamb Chops à la Plancha

Whether you’re grilling outside or cooking à la plancha indoors, these prime baby rib lamb chops are a great alternative to beef with plenty of gamey, grass-fed flavor to satisfy your red meat cravings.  This cut is a bit pricier than some of the others in the case, but being our first Sunday night in a newly renovated kitchen, I wanted to make something special for Dr. France…and use the new plancha!

Lamb has been a strong feature in Mediterranean cooking since the ancient Greeks and the tradition has continued in Provence.  The terroir of southern France lends itself well to raising sheep, which also explains the popularity of fromage de brebis, or sheep’s milk cheese, in the region.  There is a classic dish for nearly every cut, many of which are prepared on the bone to keep the meat tender and juicy.  Simply seasoned and cooked with a piece of rosemary on top allows the herbs to infuse gradually into each side of the hot chops as the fat melts away.  I like to serve them with a medley of summer vegetables such as zucchini, eggplant and tomatoes.  Enjoy!

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 12-15 minutes

Serves 2-3

Ingredients:

4 prime baby rib lamb chops

sea salt

1 ½ tsp. Alaya spice blend (La boîte à Epice)

5 small sprigs fresh rosemary, divided

1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

1 cup veal or beef stock

1 garlic clove

Technique:

• Trim the excess fat off the lamb chops, rinse in cold water, pat dry and allow them to come to room temperature.
• Heat a large, heavy bottomed sauté pan or plancha on medium-high until smoking hot.  Season lamb liberally with sea salt and Alaya spice.
  
• Add grapeseed oil and chops, placing a rosemary sprig over each.  Cook on until dark golden in color, about 3-4 minutes.  Turn and repeat on the remaining 3 sides, moving the rosemary to the top after each turn.
  
• Meanwhile, reduce the veal stock by half with one sprig of rosemary and a crushed garlic clove inside.
• Allow the meat to rest 3-4 minutes; spoon the hot sauce over the chops and serve.

Bouillabaisse Marseillaise

It took a handful of trials before perfecting my bouillabaisse recipe, mainly because it is practically the national dish of southern France, and I wanted to be sure it was up to the lofty Marseillaise standard.  It is not an easy dish to simplify, since every little step really does make a difference, however I have cut out a few to make it more reasonable and less intimidating.  That being said, all of the components for a delicious soupe de poisson are here, from the fish bones, to the saffron potatoes, rouille and croutons.  The real secret to a great version is choosing the best ingredients: fresh fish, high-quality saffron, and young garlic are the deal breakers.  I’ve kept the rouille recipe separate so familiarize yourself with it ahead of time and click over for detailed instructions when indicated.  Bon courage & bon appétit! 

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time:  30 minutes

Cook Time: 50 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 ½ pounds baby potatoes

sea salt & pepper

2 Tbsp + ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1.5-pound Loup de Mer (Branzino), filleted, bones reserved

2 Red Mullet, filleted (optional), bones reserved

1 large bulb fennel, cut into ½” sections, divided

1 med. white onion, sliced

1 large garlic clove, germ removed

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs thyme

2 pinches saffron

3 med. tomatoes, (1 14-ounce can) diced

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 cup dry white wine or rosé

6 cups. vegetable stock or water

1 recipe Rouille

Technique:

• Add potatoes to a medium-large pot and cover by 2” with cold water and 1T coarse salt.  Bring to a boil, reduce to medium and cook 10-12 minutes, until a paring knife slides in and out easily.  Drain the water, allow to cool enough to touch, peel and slice ½” thick.

• Cut fillets or whole fish into 3” pieces and rinse bones in cold water.

• Meanwhile, in a large shallow braiser over medium heat, add 2T olive oil.  Add fish bones to the pan and cook 5 minutes, until lightly colored, turn and add onion, garlic and half the fennel.  Cook 10 minutes, adding a pinch of saffron.

• Add herbs, wine, tomatoes, tomato paste, and bring to a simmer.  Add stock or water, return to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

• Make the rouille and croutons.
 

• Strain fish soup through a sieve, pressing out all the liquid into the pot used to cook the potatoes.  Discard fish bone mixture.

• Return liquid to the braiser and season to taste with salt & pepper.  Bring to a boil, add remaining fennel and simmer until nearly tender (5-7 minutes).
o If cooking fish on the bone, add 2 minutes sooner than filleted pieces, while the fennel is still slightly firm.
 

• Turn off heat, add potatoes and seasoned fish pieces; spoon liquid over them for 3 minutes until nearly cooked through; serve with croutons & rouille.

* Bouillabaisse can also be made with snapper or other varieties of sea bass

Aïoli ~ Rouille

Aïoli is essentially a garlic mayonnaise used commonly in the south of France as a condiment for vegetable platters, shellfish, or an additional ingredient in sauces as a flavoring/thickening agent.  Though the traditional recipe uses potato to create a thicker viscosity, it is not crucial and is often left out of the recipe in other parts of France.  Rouille is a variation of aïoli that uses saffron infused fish soup as the hot liquid, and it is served on croutons with the bouillabaisse. 

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time:  5 minutes

Cooking Time:  15 minutes

Yields 1 cup

Ingredients:

1 large garlic clove, germ removed

1/8 tsp. fleur de Sel

2-3 Tbsp. potato, cooked, peeled & hot

2 egg yolks

1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil

2-3 Tbsp. hot liquid (water, chicken stock, fish soup, etc)

¼ tsp. Esplette

Technique:

• Combine garlic and sea salt in a mortar & pestle and mash into a paste.

• Add the hot potato and mash with a fork or the pestle.  Add yolks, combine well and gradually stream in half the olive oil while mixing.

• Continue mixing while streaming in hot liquid.

• Stream in remaining olive oil.  Season to taste with Esplette.

Soft-shell Crabs Meunière with Fava Beans and Polenta

In honor of Mothers’ Day this year, I decided to make one of the first dishes my mother taught me: Soft-shell Crabs à la Meunière (“in the style of the miller’s wife”, or dredged in flour).  It was around the time Disney released The Little Mermaid and unlike most children, who would probably have sided with the crabs, I began singing the crazy French chef’s song, “Les Poissons”, while cleaning them with kitchen shears.  Though soft-shells are quite possibly my favorite food, the peak season is painfully short, from late April to mid-July, when blue crabs shed their shells to start their summer growth.

Choosing soft-shells requires close attention; most importantly, they should be alive, medium size (3.5”-4.5”), with supple skin (not “leather-backs”), and two claws.  Normally your fishmonger will clean the crabs for you, but if you are not planning to cook them within a few hours, they are best stored live, refrigerated in an open container, covered with a damp paper towel.  Cooking is a breeze—just coat in well-seasoned flour, shake off the excess, and sauté in a hot pan with olive oil and lemon slices until golden; finish with a touch of butter and parsley, et voila! Seasonal perfection.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time: 35 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

2 cups Chicken Stock

2 cups Milk + 2 cups for soaking crabs (optional)

Sea Salt & Esplette

1 cup Polenta

2 Tbsp. minced Chives or 2 Green Onions

2 lbs. Fava beans, removed from pods*

8 medium Soft-shell Crabs (3.5”-4.5”)

¾ cup Unbleached All-Purpose Flour

1 tsp. Mousa spice blend (optional)

1/8 tsp. Cayenne or ½ tsp. Esplette

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 Lemons, 8-¼” thick slices and the rest for juice

2 Tbsp Butter, divided

1 Tbsp. chopped Parsley

Technique:

• Polenta: In a medium pot, bring chicken stock and milk to a boil, season with ½ tsp. sea salt and gradually add polenta.  Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 35 minutes, stirring frequently, until grains are thoroughly tender.  Season to taste with salt & ½ tsp. Esplette; cover and hold warm.

• Right before serving, check consistency (add a touch more milk if too thick) and stir in chives or green onions.

• Fava beans: Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and add fava beans.  For larger beans, cook for 1 minute, then chill quickly in ice water.  Cut off the tip of the bean on the thicker side and squeeze it out of the shell.  Set aside.

o *Tip: When buying fava beans, select the widest pods available to yield larger beans for less prep work. Make sure they are firm and fresh looking, not soft and flexible.

• Crabs: Rinse live soft-shells in cold water and with a pair of sharp scissors, cut off the front ¼” of the crab (including the eye sockets).  Pick up the flaps from the tips on either side of the crab and trim off the gills/lungs.  Turn the crab over and remove the flap under the belly.

o (Optional) Add cleaned crabs to a bowl and cover with milk if you are not cooking them right away.  This will tenderize the shells and remove any bitterness.

• In a small container, combine flour with spices and ½ tsp salt.  Lightly pat crabs with paper towels, but leave them damp enough for flour to adhere to their shells.  Heat a large sauté pan on medium high and add 2T olive oil.  Dredge the crabs in the flour one at a time, and shake off the excess.

• Add crabs to the pan, belly side up, and arrange lemon slices around them.  Cook until golden, 3-4 minutes, turn and repeat.  Add 1 ½T butter in small pieces throughout the pan, along with lemon juice and parsley.  Place a browned lemon slice on each crab and remove to a warm serving dish next to the polenta.

• Add the remaining ½T butter to the pan and swirl around with fava beans until hot (10-15 seconds).  Season with salt & pepper, and serve over the hot polenta.

**I also love to eat soft-shells for breakfast with scrambled eggs, a tradition started in my mother’s family.  Soft-shells are best as soon as they split & shed their shell (before it starts getting hard again, aka. “leather-backs”), so the idea is to catch them in the bay right before they molt.  They would keep them in a pen, which my grandfather built in the shallow water in front of their beach house, and in the morning the children would run out and see how many were ready to eat for breakfast!  Brilliant 😉

Seared Ahi Tuna with Fire Roasted Peppers and Fregula Sarda

Fire roasted peppers are the star of this dish, and a quick buzz in the blender turns them into a sweet, tangy condiment for any grilled fish or meat.  Seared tuna may not seem like a home cook’s fish, but ‘sushi-grade’ has become a common term in most markets, so be sure to ask your fishmonger.  To avoid overcooking, keep the steak super cold until the last minute and get the pan smoking hot before grilling.  I’m currently obsessed with my “Mousa” spice blend from La Boîte à Epice, but cracked black pepper and fennel seeds are a solid alternative.  Fregula Sarda, toasted durum wheat pasta, is similar to Israeli couscous, and with fragrant lemon and basil, it really brings the meal together.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time: 25 minutes

Cook Time: 35 minutes

Serves 4

Red Pepper Coulis:

3 Red Bell Peppers (or 1 12-ounce jar Roasted Peppers)

1 medium clove Garlic, germ removed

1 Tbsp. Sherry Vinegar (Xérès)

½ tsp. Pastis (optional)

Sea Salt and Esplette

• Wash, dry and roast peppers directly on a high flame until thoroughly blackened on all sides (about 10 minutes).  Add to a bowl and cover with foil or plastic film for 5 minutes to steam.

• Use paper towels (and plastic gloves if available, since peppers will still be hot) to remove the blackened skin, as well as the core and seeds.

o If using jarred roasted peppers, drain well and adjust seasonings to taste since they are often marinated with garlic and vinegar already. 

• Add peppers, garlic, vinegar and Pastis to blender and purée.  Transfer to a small pot and cook over medium-low heat, whisking frequently to avoid boiling over or spattering, until reduced by 2/3 (15-20 minutes).  It should be the consistency of a thin ketchup.  Season to taste and cool to room temperature.

Fregula Sarda:

1 cup Fregula Sarda (sub. Israeli Couscous)

2 cups Chicken Stock (low-sodium)

Zest of ¼ Lemon

1 small Zucchini, grated or julienned (matchsticks)

6 medium Basil leaves, chiffonade

Sea Salt & ¼ tsp. Esplette or 1 pinch Cayenne

• Bring chicken stock to a boil.  Rinse fregula in cold water and add to stock; reduce heat and simmer until tender and almost all stock has been absorbed (about 20 minutes).

• Add zucchini, lemon zest and Esplette.  Season to taste with salt, cover, turn off heat, and hold warm until ready to serve.  Stir in basil at the last minute.

Seared Ahi Tuna:

2 12-ounce Ahi Tuna Steaks (sushi-grade), 1” thick

Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1 ½ tsp. Mousa Spice Blend (sub. ground Fennel Seeds)

Sea Salt & Esplette or Black Pepper

• Heat a grill pan over high heat and turn on the fan.  Rinse cold steaks in cold water, pat dry, and season with 2T olive oil, salt and spices.

• Once the pan is smoking hot, grill tuna until visibly cooked about ¼” through, approximately 1 minute on the first side, and slightly more on the second.

• Using a sharp knife, slice ½” thick, against the grain of the fish.  Finish with a pinch of fleur de sel and a generous spoon of red pepper coulis.

o Entertaining Tip: Make the pepper coulis and fregola in advance, so all you have to do is reheat and grill the fish!

Spicy Grilled Calamari with Lemon, Baby Arugula & Fennel Salad

Mezzaluna is an Italian trattoria and true neighborhood gem around the corner from my apartment where I often go with family to enjoy a casual meal.  As soon as we sit down, I pre-order the grilled calamari since it’s a popular item and I prefer to get the disappointment out of the way if they’ve run out.  Finally the other day, as I was eating yet another plate of the chili-spiced squids, Dr. France asked me why I hadn’t made this favorite dish at home.  So last night I picked some up from the market and continued my current trend of the ‘zip-lock marinade & grill’ technique.  This recipe utilizes a mix of standard Mediterranean ingredients (lemon, olive oil, parsley) plus a pinch of chili flakes and Esplette to pack some punch.  Like other grilled seafood, it is important to sear them hot and fast so the squid don’t get overcooked and tough.  Finished with a healthy squeeze of lemon and a baby arugula salad, this dish brings seaside summer off the boat to your city kitchen.  Add grilled marinated vegetables or lemony fregola pasta as an extra side dish.

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time:  15 minutes

Cook Time:  5 minutes

Serves 2

Ingredients:

1 lb. cleaned Squid, heads and tails

zest and juice of 2 lemons, divided

½ tsp. Chili flakes (med-spicy)

½ tsp. Esplette

½ tsp. Sea Salt

1 Tbsp. chopped Shallot

2 Tbsp chopped Parsley, divided

½ cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil, divided

4 oz. (115g) Baby Arugula

½ Fennel bulb, shaved thin

Fleur de Sel

Technique:

• Rinse the squid in cold water and drain on paper towels.  Score the heads (white parts) by making shallow slices ½-inch apart, without cutting all the way through.

• Prepare the squid marinade in a large zip-lock bag.  Combine the zest of 1 lemon, juice of ½ lemon, chili flakes, Esplette, shallots , 1T parsley and ¼ cup olive oil.  Mix well, add calamari, seal the bag and shake until evenly distributed.  Refrigerate for 10 minutes.

• Prepare salad dressing by combining the zest of half a lemon, juice of a whole lemon, salt and pepper; whisk in 3-4T olive oil.

• Heat the grill pan on high until smoking hot.  Add calamari and press down with a spatula so they don’t curl too much.  Cook for 2 ½ minutes on each side and remove to a warmed platter with remaining parsley and half a lemon.  If cooking with vegetables, start them 3-4 minutes before calamari.  

• Toss arugula and shaved fennel with dressing, season with salt and pepper and serve.