Avignon (Vaucluse) PROVENCE

VISIT:  Avignon

• A true capital of Provence and once an important trade route, Avignon is situated at the confluence of the Rhône and Durance rivers.  The city’s claim to fame began in the 14^th century with the Great Schism, when the seat of the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  The fortified city walls merely hint at the staggering scale of the largest gothic palace in Europe, and the imposing holy see that inhabited it.  Nowadays, much of the annual action happens during the 4-week Festival d’Avignon in July when the city turns into one big theater district; hundreds of plays are put on daily from company productions to one-man-shows.
  

SEE:

• Palais des Papes, Papal Gardens, Pont Saint-Benezet, Les Halles d’Avignon
  The Gothic residence of 7 early-Renaissance popes, the massive holy palace is worth touring, as is the panoramic view from the papal gardens, despite the many steps required to see it.
  

• Follow the river around to see the remains of the medieval Saint-Benezet bridge and fortified city walls.  Everyday except Monday, check out Les Halles, the indoor food market of all local specialties from wine and cheese to olive oils and honey.
  

STAY/EAT:

• La Mirande, 4 Place de l’Amirande, 84000 Avignon
  This beautifully restored hotel is a luxurious flashback to la belle époque with ornately decorated salons fit for receiving royals or enjoying an eccentric afternoon tea.  The restaurant is one of the most reputed in the city, and the garden terrace is a perfect spot for a leisurely luncheon.
  

EAT:

• L’Essentiel, 2 Rue Petite Fusterie, 84000 Avignon
  This family-run establishment will not disappoint.  Locals and tourists alike flock for the excellent and reasonably priced lunch pre-fixe menu.  Generous portions make it possible to call one main course a meal, but it’s not an easy choice.  The high-walled stone courtyard in the back is a calming break from the bustling streets of the city, especially during the hectic summer festival.
  

• Festival des Glaces, 2 Rue de la République, 84000 Avignon
  This mega-patisserie is the place to get your sugar-fix.  Choose from 6 cases of gelato flavors such as Tarte Citron or Caramel Beurre Salé.
  

Arles & La Camargue, PROVENCE

VISIT: Arles & La Camargue

• This famous Provençal city is filled with Roman ruins that have been so well preserved that many are still used today for concerts and bullfights.  Small museums and Romanesque churches dot the streets of the old city.  The Alyscamps (ancient necropolis) was once as famous as the Appian Way, though modern claims to fame focus on Van Gogh and the Gypsy Kings.
• Camargue, center of rice and salt production in Provence, is a short drive from Arles.  A massive estuary of wetlands on the Rhône (river) delta, on a good day you’ll see wild white horses, birds, and maybe even some flamingos.
  

SEE:

• Centre-Ville, Place de la République
  Take a walking tour through this area to see the many historical monuments from Roman theaters and arenas, to museums and medieval churches.  From July through September is the annual photography festival, Les Rencontres Photographie, with over 60 expositions around the city.
  
• The old Arles hospital that housed Van Gogh has a beautiful garden.
• The Saturday market is held next to the Roman theater, with stalls lining a full avenue until early afternoon.  Pick up souvenirs such as spices, sea salt from Camargue, tablecloths, or picnic snacks.
  
  • Market picnic: fougasse d’Arles (bread), tapenade, cheese, fruits; or for breakfast, Jesuite pastries are particularly delicious.
  • Souleiado: 10 Boulevard des Lices, 13200 Arles
    The original Provençal linen factory is now a museum outside of town, but the small shop on the market street sells the most authentic, elaborate Provençal tablecloths (as well as clothing).
  • Musée de la Camargue, Mas du Pont de Rousty 13200 Arles
    Museum dedicated to life in the Rhone delta, focuses on country life in the 19^th-21^st century from farming, hunting and fishing to the production of sea salt, wine and rice growing.

STAY:

• Grand Hotel Nord Pinus, 14 Place du Forum 13200 Arles
  The place du Forum is a happening square filled with casual cafes, including the hotel’s restaurant; adjacent side streets are full of small shops.
  
• L’Hotel Particulier, 4 Rue de la Monnaie 13200 Arles

Luxury hotel in a XVIII century restored mansion.

EAT:

• L’Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel / Bistrot ‘A Coté’, 21 Rue des Carmes 13200 Arles
  Whether you want to go gastro-fancy or bistro-casual, these sister restaurants are a sure bet for refined Provencal flavors.  Rabanel is well respected in the city—asking around to find the street got us lots of thumbs up and even a couple recommendations on what to order.   I was glad we ate at the bistro, which has a 3-course daily pre-fixe for around 30€ (looked great on the neighboring table) but we went for lobster, lamb chops and braised beef cheeks with ravioles du Royans: outstanding.  Love the rustic cast-iron presentations.  Reserve ahead.
  
• La Chassagnette, Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles
  Only 15-20 minutes from Arles, this 1-Michelin star restaurant from Chef Armand Arnal, alumnus of both Restaurant Daniel and Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, is a beautiful oasis in the vast Camargue.  Local Provençal ingredients, many of which are grown on site in their gardens, are combined with occasional asian flavors, and an optional sake pairing inspired by his time spent in Japan.  Best dishes: Camargue crayfish with carrots, daurade with chanterelles.  Reserve ahead.
  
  

Almond Pavlovas with Summer Berries and Vanilla

Meringue is a standard feature in my ‘pastry’ repertoire because it’s extremely easy to whip up with an electric mixer and once it’s in the oven, you can set a timer and forget about it.  Also known as a “pavlova”, after the famous Russian ballerina for whom the dessert is named, the French meringue is spooned out in large dollops and baked in a slow oven.  The result is a firm exterior shell with a soft, marshmallow-like interior that makes a perfect bed for ripe summer berries and a touch of vanilla whipped cream.  The meringues hold up very well in a sealed container for 2-3 days and are a breeze when entertaining, whether individually portioned or family size.

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 5 minutes

Cook Time: 65 minutes

Makes 4 individual servings

 

Ingredients:

4 egg whites, room temperature

1 cup superfine or caster sugar*

1 pinch sea salt

1 tsp. cornstarch

1 tsp. white vinegar

1 vanilla bean, divided (or 1 tsp. extract)

¼ tsp almond extract (optional)

¼ cup sliced almonds

1 cup heavy cream

2 cups (500g) mixed berries (currants, cherries, strawberries, blueberries, raspberries, blackberries)

*If you don’t have caster sugar, add regular granulated sugar to a blender or food processor and buzz for about one minute until superfine.

Technique:

• Preheat oven to 250˚F.
• Using an electric mixer, whisk the whites and salt on medium speed (5) until soft peaks form; gradually add sugar and increase speed slightly.  Scrape down the sides of the bowl so all the sugar gets incorporated.  Continue to whisk while sprinkling in the cornstarch, vinegar, almond extract and half the vanilla.  Peaks should be stiff and glossy.
  
• On a clean silpat, make four equal piles of meringue; use the back of a spoon to even them into round discs no larger than 5” in diameter.  Sprinkle with sliced almonds and bake for 60-70 minutes.  Allow them to cool gradually with the oven door open.  Cool completely and store in an airtight container for up to 3 days.
  
  
• Whip the cold cream and remaining half vanilla bean.  With a long thin knife, cut off the top half of each pavlova (don’t worry if they crack a little).  Add berries to the bottom half, followed by a big dollop of whipped cream.  Stick the top back on the cream and serve.
  

Les Baux de Provence (Bouches-du-Rhône)

VISIT:

• Visit Les Baux de Provence for the incredible topography, rocky cliffs and lush valleys filled with olive groves and vineyards.  With two gorgeous 5-star hotels and Michelin starred restaurants, this is the perfect home-base from which to visit nearby cities of Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Aix-en-Provence.

SEE:

• Chateau des Baux, Les Baux-de-Provence, 13520
  Medieval fortress with massive ruins, weaponry, and stunning panoramic views of the region.  Visualize life in the days of lords, ladies, minstrels and troubadours.  A must see…
  
  

STAY: 

• La Cabro d’Or, Route d’Arles
 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
• Oustau de Baumanière, 13520 Les Baux de Provence
  Both hotels owned and operated by the Charial family (Jean-Andre & Genevieve) whose gracious, hospitable presence keeps every detail in top form.  The staff was incredibly helpful with regional restaurant and touring advice.  Extra special thanks to our resident tour guide, William!

• La Cabro d’Or is more moderately priced and family oriented, while Oustau is a bit fancier and better suited to couples seeking a romantic getaway.  The two hotels are a 5-minute drive apart and share an incredible state-of-the-art SPA.  Visit the entire grounds at La Cabro d’Or to see the vegetable gardens, baby goats and the swan pond.
  

EAT: 

• Restaurant Oustau de Baumanière
  2 Michelin stars; indulge in lunch or dinner here for an extraordinary, memorable meal on the stunning terrace under the trees, surrounded by rocky cliffs and the best food in the region.  The elaborate house-made bread selection is only the beginning… Reserve ahead.
  
  

• Restaurant La Cabro d’Or
  1 Michelin Star; slightly more casual alternative to Oustau, and their tree-shaded terrace is the perfect place to enjoy a light breakfast or a romantic dinner.  The chef’s attention to detail is everywhere, from the afternoon poolside lunch that puts any ‘all-day-dining’ menu to shame, to the incredible tasting menu at night… Reserve ahead.
  

• Le Café des Baux, Rue du Trencat, 13520, Les Baux de Provence
  An upscale café down the cobblestone path from the Chateau where Chef Pierre Walter, an award winning pastry chef, serves 3 levels of pre-fixe menus.  The lavender crème brûlée is outstanding! Reserve ahead for peak seatings.
  

Chilled Zucchini Soup with Black Olive Crostini

This time of year, courgettes turn up at the farmer’s market in super-size form.  Unlike small, firm zucchini, which are best when lightly sautéed, the larger legumes have more soft, seeded chair in the center, making them better suited to a blended soup.  Always looking for new ways to prepare the abundant summer squash, Dr. France’s mother showed me how to make this one and it’s already a regular in my entertaining repertoire.  Cooked until tender with spring onions, leeks and a touch of stock, the vegetables can be buzzed into a smooth purée with a good immersion blender.  Grind some Niçoise olives and garlic together for a briny garnish on a crunchy crostini for another layer of fresh flavor.

 

Difficulty:  Easy-Moderate

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 30 minutes

Makes 1 ½ quarts, 6 servings

 

Ingredients:

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, divided

1 medium leek, (1 cup) chiffonade & washed

½ small onion, (½ cup) thinly sliced

1 large zucchini (750g/1.5 lbs), diced

1 ½ garlic cloves, germ removed & diced, divided

1 bay leaf

2 thyme sprigs

1 cup chicken stock

sea salt & white pepper

¼ cup Niçoise olives

4 marinated anchovies (optional)

6 crostini with herbs de Provence

6-8 large basil leaves, chiffonade

Technique:

• In a wide-bottomed pot, sweat the onions and leeks with 1T olive oil over medium heat for 4-6 minutes until tender.
  
• Add zucchini, 1 garlic clove, thyme and bay leaf; cook for 5-7 minutes, stirring regularly.  Add chicken stock and bring to a simmer; reduce heat to low, cover and cook for 15-20 minutes until zucchini is completely soft.
  
  
• Remove herbs, blend until smooth, and season to taste with salt and pepper.  Chill quickly in a metal bowl over ice water to preserve the best color.
• Using a mortar & pestle or a small blender (mini-Cuisinart attachment for immersion blender), combine olives, anchovies, and remaining ½ garlic clove.  Add 2T olive oil and mix until combined.
• Spoon tapenade onto each crostini and serve over the soup with a sprinkle of basil.

Heirloom Tomato Bruschetta with Goat Cheese and Basil

Tomato season is upon us, and nothing makes me happier than using a super simple recipe to enjoy the savory fruits in all their natural glory.   Heirlooms come in a spectrum of hues from brownish purple to light green, and unlike other varieties, coloration does not determine ripeness.  Ripe tomatoes have a slight give when pressed, not to be confused with soft spots or bruises, and more often than not, they require a few days on your countertop before hitting their peak.  Don’t be scared off by scabby patches on the bottom side—simply trim those off with the stems.  Whether or not you choose to remove the skin is a personal preference, though if you haven’t tried before, it does add an element of refinement to the dish.  The secret to good bruschetta is a well-drained, yet juicy topping and a strong crostini to support it.  Follow these easy steps for a fresh, seasonal hors d’ouvre or appetizer any night of the week.

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Cook Time: 10 minutes

Makes 10-12 pieces

Ingredients:

1 lb. (500g) heirloom tomatoes (ripe)

½ baguette, slightly stale

½ tsp. herbs de Provence

3 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil, divided

sea salt & white pepper

2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar

½ tsp. Esplette

¼ cup finely diced shallot

¼ cup basil chiffonade (6-8 leaves)

2 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled

Technique:

• Peel (optional), remove seeds and dice the tomatoes into ¼” pieces.  Allow them to drain in a colander while preparing the other ingredients (15 minutes).
• Preheat the oven to 350˚F.  Slice the baguette, slightly less than ½” thick on the bias.  Line a sheet pan with foil, lay out slices and season with herbs de Provence, 1T olive oil, salt and pepper.  Bake for 5 minutes, turn over the crostini, rotate the tray and return to the oven for 5-6 minutes, until firm in the center.
  
• Right before serving, add the remaining ingredients to the tomatoes (except goat cheese) and mix gently.  Season to taste with salt.
  
• Spoon 2-3T onto each crostini and sprinkle with crumbled goat cheese.

Breakfast Potato Pie with Tomato and Eggs

Recently I was flipping through old cookbooks and came across a recipe in More With Less (1976) that used grated potato as the foundation for quiche in place of tart dough.  Having just purchased a pair of individual size cast iron skillets, I decided this was the perfect inaugural recipe—though it would also make a great group breakfast with a larger pan.  Mixed with a touch of oil, salt and spices, the starchy potatoes are molded into a thin layer lining the skillets and par-baked.  Rather than mixing the eggs with cream for a custard, I crack them whole over some fresh Provençal tomato sauce and finish in the oven.  As with all egg dishes, toppings range from virtuous to indulgent—whether it’s diced smoked bacon, crumbled goat cheese, or a simple sprig of fresh basil, each makes an ideal dish to start your day.

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 10-20 minutes

Cook Time: 30-35 minutes

Serves 2

Ingredients:

1 cup Provençal tomato sauce

OR 1 cup diced tomato

1 Idaho potato (275g)

2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

½ tsp. sea salt

½ tsp Esplette

½ tsp. Luberon spice from La boîte à Epice (sub. herbs de Provence)

4 eggs, room temperature

2 Tbsp. raw smoked bacon, diced (optional)

1 ounce (30g) crumbled goat cheese (optional)

4 basil leaves, chiffonade

Technique:

• Prepare tomato sauce as directed.
• Preheat the oven to 425˚F.
• Peel and grate the potato into a bowl.  Mix together with oil, salt and spices.  Divide the mixture evenly between the two cast iron skillets; use a fork to make an even layer on the bottom and sides.  Bake for 15-20 minutes until the edges are golden brown.
  
  
• Spread half a cup of tomato sauce, or seasoned diced tomato, in an even layer over the base of each potato shell.  Crack two eggs, side by side, over the tomatoes and sprinkle any other garnishes (except herbs) around the eggs.
  
• Return to the oven for 10-12 minutes, until the whites are opaque, and the yolks are still glossy.  Finish with fresh basil, a pinch of fleur de sel and Esplette over the yolks.
  

‘Caprilu’ Almond Cookies with Lemon

Nothing draws a crowd like the alluring smell of freshly cooked waffle-cones, which is how the pasticceria Buonocore in Capri stays packed with gelato-craving tourists at all hours of the day and night.  I’m not much one for lines, so while Dr. France held the fort for my cono di stracciatella, I perused the shop seeking photos and samples of their other local flavors.  Enticed to buy some familiar looking almond cookies labeled “Caprilu Limone”, I was completely blown away by the crisp, sugar dusted exterior, with a chewy, lemony-marzipan center.  Made with almonds, honey and lemons for that quintessential Italian citrus goodness, the little morsels go perfectly with a chilled shot of the other island specialty: limoncello.  Needless to say, Buonocore wasn’t handing out their recipe, however after some testing on the home-front, I’ve come up with my best version to bring a bite of the Amalfi coast to your kitchen… and as an added bonus, they’re gluten-free… Buonissimo!

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 15-20 minutes

Makes 30-35 cookies

 

Ingredients:

2 egg whites, room temperature

1 pinch salt

½ cup (100g) sugar

4 cups (320g) almond flour

¼ cup (90g) honey

juice of 2 lemons (50g)

zest of 3 lemons

½ tsp. almond extract

½ tsp. vanilla extract (optional)

¾ cup (75g) sliced blanched almonds

¼ cup confectioner’s sugar for dusting

Technique:

• Preheat the oven to 325˚F.
• Whisk egg whites and salt until soft peaks form; sprinkle in sugar and continue to whisk to firm peaks.  Use a spatula or the paddle attachment to fold almond flour into the whites.
  
• Add remaining ingredients, except confectioner’s sugar, and combine thoroughly.
  
  
• Cookies can be spooned individually onto a sil-pat, or rolled into a log and cut for more uniform shapes.  For the latter, lay out a long piece of plastic film and sprinkle a horizontal line of confectioner’s sugar across the center.  Add the cookie dough along the line, fold the plastic over and roll it into a long tube, 1 ½” in diameter.  Unwrap the plastic, sprinkle with powdered sugar, cut into 1 ½” pieces and arrange on a sil-pat.
  
• Bake for 20 minutes, turning halfway through, until edges are crisp and golden.  Cool completely before removing and dust with additional confectioner’s sugar.  Store in a sealed container up to 4 days.
  
  • Variations: Having tested and adjusted this recipe a handful of times, I must admit that each version made a great batch of cookies, so feel free to adjust according to your preferences.  Here are a few suggestions…
  • For a looser, more lemony cookie: add the juice of a third lemon and spoon them out onto the silpat with slightly more room between each for spreading.
  • For a firmer, crustier cookie: (still just as moist in the center) mix 1/2 cup sugar together with the almond flour instead of honey.

Hangar Steak with Farro Risotto and Fava Beans

Farro is one of those ‘ancient grains’ that has been revived of late with the push towards whole grain foods.  As a part of the wheat family, it creates a less creamy risotto than arborio or carnaroli rice, but its nutty taste and richness from the slow cooking technique more than make up for it.  Hangar steak is a less expensive cut of meat but with the right seasonings its flavor can nearly outshine any other.  The trick is having your butcher remove the nerve that runs through the center of the meat, creating two small loins that can be tied into equal sized loins and seared accordingly.  The garnishes in the risotto can vary but these really complement the meaty dish, balancing salty saucisson sec with the calmed citrus flavor of lemon confit.  Add whatever seasonal vegetables strike your fancy for this adaptable, year-round classic.

Difficulty: Moderate

Prep Time: 20 minutes

Cook Time: 50 minutes

Serves 4-5

Ingredients:

1 Tbsp. olive oil

½ onion, finely diced

1 cup faro

3 cloves spring garlic (or 1 clove regular garlic), finely diced

¼ cup diced dry sausage

¾ lemon confit, diced

¼ cup red scallions

3 pieces sundried tomato, finely diced

2 cups white wine

2 cups chicken stock, hot

1 ½ cups veal stock, divided

1 tsp. Esplette

¾ cup blanched, shucked favas

1 2-pound hangar steak, divided lengthwise and tied

2 Tbsp. Alaya spice

Technique:

• In a large sauté pan with high edges, sweat the onions in the olive oil until translucent.  Add the faro and stir until coated; reduce heat to low and add 1 cup wine.  Stir until nearly all the liquid has been absorbed and repeat with the remaining wine and chicken stock, 1 cup at a time.
  
  Add garlic, saucisson, lemon, scallions and sundried tomatoes.  Check that the faro is tender but firm, cover, and turn off the heat
  
• Heat the grill on high and season the hangar steaks with Alaya spice.  Cook the steaks on all four sides for approximately 15 minutes total; rest on the cutting board for 2-3 minutes before cutting against the grain in 1” slices on the bias.
  
• Heat the veal stock in a small saucepan and finish the risotto with ¾ cup stock and the fava beans.  Combine any juices from cutting the steak with remaining stock and spoon over the meat once served.

Chilled Melon Gaspacho with Duck Prosciutto and Mint

Truth be told, I’ve never been a big fan of melon gaspacho, but after countless amuse-bouche shots of it in the south of France this summer, I finally decided it’s time to make amends with the fruity bisque by creating my own recipe.  The best cantaloupes come from Cavaillon in Provence and every July the village holds a three day Fête du Melon to celebrate the height of the season.  French melons are smaller than the typical American variety, with dark green striped skin, vibrant orange flesh and a heavenly perfume so sweet that it draws the bees from their lavender.  Normally I devour the fruit in crescents with prosciutto, so with this in mind, I came up with three ingredients that would harmonize the same way in a soup: Lillet blanc, duck prosciutto, and Cancale, a spice blend from La Boîte à Epice made with fleur de sel, orange and fennel pollen among other things.  The combination of sweet and savory elements make it feel like a starter rather than a smoothie, with a hint of mint to keep this soup summertime fresh.

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time: 15 minutes

Serves 4

 

Ingredients:

1 large cantaloupe, skinned, seeded and cut into chunks, divided

6 leaves of fresh mint

2 ounces Lillet blanc

4 ounces (½ cup, 120g) duck prosciutto (sub. Prosciutto di Parma)

1 ½ tsp. Cancale spice, divided (from La boîte à Epice)

Technique:

• Reserve ½ cup of melon for garnish; blend the rest with Lillet, mint, and ¾ tsp. Cancale until completely smooth.  Refrigerate.
  
• Finely dice the reserved melon and the prosciutto.  Sprinkle 2T of each garnish per bowl of well-chilled soup with a pinch of Cancale.