Avignon (Vaucluse) PROVENCE

VISIT:  Avignon

• A true capital of Provence and once an important trade route, Avignon is situated at the confluence of the Rhône and Durance rivers.  The city’s claim to fame began in the 14^th century with the Great Schism, when the seat of the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  The fortified city walls merely hint at the staggering scale of the largest gothic palace in Europe, and the imposing holy see that inhabited it.  Nowadays, much of the annual action happens during the 4-week Festival d’Avignon in July when the city turns into one big theater district; hundreds of plays are put on daily from company productions to one-man-shows.
  

SEE:

• Palais des Papes, Papal Gardens, Pont Saint-Benezet, Les Halles d’Avignon
  The Gothic residence of 7 early-Renaissance popes, the massive holy palace is worth touring, as is the panoramic view from the papal gardens, despite the many steps required to see it.
  

• Follow the river around to see the remains of the medieval Saint-Benezet bridge and fortified city walls.  Everyday except Monday, check out Les Halles, the indoor food market of all local specialties from wine and cheese to olive oils and honey.
  

STAY/EAT:

• La Mirande, 4 Place de l’Amirande, 84000 Avignon
  This beautifully restored hotel is a luxurious flashback to la belle époque with ornately decorated salons fit for receiving royals or enjoying an eccentric afternoon tea.  The restaurant is one of the most reputed in the city, and the garden terrace is a perfect spot for a leisurely luncheon.
  

EAT:

• L’Essentiel, 2 Rue Petite Fusterie, 84000 Avignon
  This family-run establishment will not disappoint.  Locals and tourists alike flock for the excellent and reasonably priced lunch pre-fixe menu.  Generous portions make it possible to call one main course a meal, but it’s not an easy choice.  The high-walled stone courtyard in the back is a calming break from the bustling streets of the city, especially during the hectic summer festival.
  

• Festival des Glaces, 2 Rue de la République, 84000 Avignon
  This mega-patisserie is the place to get your sugar-fix.  Choose from 6 cases of gelato flavors such as Tarte Citron or Caramel Beurre Salé.
  

Arles & La Camargue, PROVENCE

VISIT: Arles & La Camargue

• This famous Provençal city is filled with Roman ruins that have been so well preserved that many are still used today for concerts and bullfights.  Small museums and Romanesque churches dot the streets of the old city.  The Alyscamps (ancient necropolis) was once as famous as the Appian Way, though modern claims to fame focus on Van Gogh and the Gypsy Kings.
• Camargue, center of rice and salt production in Provence, is a short drive from Arles.  A massive estuary of wetlands on the Rhône (river) delta, on a good day you’ll see wild white horses, birds, and maybe even some flamingos.
  

SEE:

• Centre-Ville, Place de la République
  Take a walking tour through this area to see the many historical monuments from Roman theaters and arenas, to museums and medieval churches.  From July through September is the annual photography festival, Les Rencontres Photographie, with over 60 expositions around the city.
  
• The old Arles hospital that housed Van Gogh has a beautiful garden.
• The Saturday market is held next to the Roman theater, with stalls lining a full avenue until early afternoon.  Pick up souvenirs such as spices, sea salt from Camargue, tablecloths, or picnic snacks.
  
  • Market picnic: fougasse d’Arles (bread), tapenade, cheese, fruits; or for breakfast, Jesuite pastries are particularly delicious.
  • Souleiado: 10 Boulevard des Lices, 13200 Arles
    The original Provençal linen factory is now a museum outside of town, but the small shop on the market street sells the most authentic, elaborate Provençal tablecloths (as well as clothing).
  • Musée de la Camargue, Mas du Pont de Rousty 13200 Arles
    Museum dedicated to life in the Rhone delta, focuses on country life in the 19^th-21^st century from farming, hunting and fishing to the production of sea salt, wine and rice growing.

STAY:

• Grand Hotel Nord Pinus, 14 Place du Forum 13200 Arles
  The place du Forum is a happening square filled with casual cafes, including the hotel’s restaurant; adjacent side streets are full of small shops.
  
• L’Hotel Particulier, 4 Rue de la Monnaie 13200 Arles

Luxury hotel in a XVIII century restored mansion.

EAT:

• L’Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel / Bistrot ‘A Coté’, 21 Rue des Carmes 13200 Arles
  Whether you want to go gastro-fancy or bistro-casual, these sister restaurants are a sure bet for refined Provencal flavors.  Rabanel is well respected in the city—asking around to find the street got us lots of thumbs up and even a couple recommendations on what to order.   I was glad we ate at the bistro, which has a 3-course daily pre-fixe for around 30€ (looked great on the neighboring table) but we went for lobster, lamb chops and braised beef cheeks with ravioles du Royans: outstanding.  Love the rustic cast-iron presentations.  Reserve ahead.
  
• La Chassagnette, Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles
  Only 15-20 minutes from Arles, this 1-Michelin star restaurant from Chef Armand Arnal, alumnus of both Restaurant Daniel and Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, is a beautiful oasis in the vast Camargue.  Local Provençal ingredients, many of which are grown on site in their gardens, are combined with occasional asian flavors, and an optional sake pairing inspired by his time spent in Japan.  Best dishes: Camargue crayfish with carrots, daurade with chanterelles.  Reserve ahead.
  
  

Les Baux de Provence (Bouches-du-Rhône)

VISIT:

• Visit Les Baux de Provence for the incredible topography, rocky cliffs and lush valleys filled with olive groves and vineyards.  With two gorgeous 5-star hotels and Michelin starred restaurants, this is the perfect home-base from which to visit nearby cities of Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Aix-en-Provence.

SEE:

• Chateau des Baux, Les Baux-de-Provence, 13520
  Medieval fortress with massive ruins, weaponry, and stunning panoramic views of the region.  Visualize life in the days of lords, ladies, minstrels and troubadours.  A must see…
  
  

STAY: 

• La Cabro d’Or, Route d’Arles
 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
• Oustau de Baumanière, 13520 Les Baux de Provence
  Both hotels owned and operated by the Charial family (Jean-Andre & Genevieve) whose gracious, hospitable presence keeps every detail in top form.  The staff was incredibly helpful with regional restaurant and touring advice.  Extra special thanks to our resident tour guide, William!

• La Cabro d’Or is more moderately priced and family oriented, while Oustau is a bit fancier and better suited to couples seeking a romantic getaway.  The two hotels are a 5-minute drive apart and share an incredible state-of-the-art SPA.  Visit the entire grounds at La Cabro d’Or to see the vegetable gardens, baby goats and the swan pond.
  

EAT: 

• Restaurant Oustau de Baumanière
  2 Michelin stars; indulge in lunch or dinner here for an extraordinary, memorable meal on the stunning terrace under the trees, surrounded by rocky cliffs and the best food in the region.  The elaborate house-made bread selection is only the beginning… Reserve ahead.
  
  

• Restaurant La Cabro d’Or
  1 Michelin Star; slightly more casual alternative to Oustau, and their tree-shaded terrace is the perfect place to enjoy a light breakfast or a romantic dinner.  The chef’s attention to detail is everywhere, from the afternoon poolside lunch that puts any ‘all-day-dining’ menu to shame, to the incredible tasting menu at night… Reserve ahead.
  

• Le Café des Baux, Rue du Trencat, 13520, Les Baux de Provence
  An upscale café down the cobblestone path from the Chateau where Chef Pierre Walter, an award winning pastry chef, serves 3 levels of pre-fixe menus.  The lavender crème brûlée is outstanding! Reserve ahead for peak seatings.
  

Bouillabaisse Marseillaise

It took a handful of trials before perfecting my bouillabaisse recipe, mainly because it is practically the national dish of southern France, and I wanted to be sure it was up to the lofty Marseillaise standard.  It is not an easy dish to simplify, since every little step really does make a difference, however I have cut out a few to make it more reasonable and less intimidating.  That being said, all of the components for a delicious soupe de poisson are here, from the fish bones, to the saffron potatoes, rouille and croutons.  The real secret to a great version is choosing the best ingredients: fresh fish, high-quality saffron, and young garlic are the deal breakers.  I’ve kept the rouille recipe separate so familiarize yourself with it ahead of time and click over for detailed instructions when indicated.  Bon courage & bon appétit! 

Difficulty:  Moderate

Prep Time:  30 minutes

Cook Time: 50 minutes

Serves 4

Ingredients:

1 ½ pounds baby potatoes

sea salt & pepper

2 Tbsp + ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 1.5-pound Loup de Mer (Branzino), filleted, bones reserved

2 Red Mullet, filleted (optional), bones reserved

1 large bulb fennel, cut into ½” sections, divided

1 med. white onion, sliced

1 large garlic clove, germ removed

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs thyme

2 pinches saffron

3 med. tomatoes, (1 14-ounce can) diced

2 Tbsp. tomato paste

1 cup dry white wine or rosé

6 cups. vegetable stock or water

1 recipe Rouille

Technique:

• Add potatoes to a medium-large pot and cover by 2” with cold water and 1T coarse salt.  Bring to a boil, reduce to medium and cook 10-12 minutes, until a paring knife slides in and out easily.  Drain the water, allow to cool enough to touch, peel and slice ½” thick.

• Cut fillets or whole fish into 3” pieces and rinse bones in cold water.

• Meanwhile, in a large shallow braiser over medium heat, add 2T olive oil.  Add fish bones to the pan and cook 5 minutes, until lightly colored, turn and add onion, garlic and half the fennel.  Cook 10 minutes, adding a pinch of saffron.

• Add herbs, wine, tomatoes, tomato paste, and bring to a simmer.  Add stock or water, return to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

• Make the rouille and croutons.
 

• Strain fish soup through a sieve, pressing out all the liquid into the pot used to cook the potatoes.  Discard fish bone mixture.

• Return liquid to the braiser and season to taste with salt & pepper.  Bring to a boil, add remaining fennel and simmer until nearly tender (5-7 minutes).
o If cooking fish on the bone, add 2 minutes sooner than filleted pieces, while the fennel is still slightly firm.
 

• Turn off heat, add potatoes and seasoned fish pieces; spoon liquid over them for 3 minutes until nearly cooked through; serve with croutons & rouille.

* Bouillabaisse can also be made with snapper or other varieties of sea bass

Aïoli ~ Rouille

Aïoli is essentially a garlic mayonnaise used commonly in the south of France as a condiment for vegetable platters, shellfish, or an additional ingredient in sauces as a flavoring/thickening agent.  Though the traditional recipe uses potato to create a thicker viscosity, it is not crucial and is often left out of the recipe in other parts of France.  Rouille is a variation of aïoli that uses saffron infused fish soup as the hot liquid, and it is served on croutons with the bouillabaisse. 

Difficulty: Easy

Prep Time:  5 minutes

Cooking Time:  15 minutes

Yields 1 cup

Ingredients:

1 large garlic clove, germ removed

1/8 tsp. fleur de Sel

2-3 Tbsp. potato, cooked, peeled & hot

2 egg yolks

1/2 c. extra-virgin olive oil

2-3 Tbsp. hot liquid (water, chicken stock, fish soup, etc)

¼ tsp. Esplette

Technique:

• Combine garlic and sea salt in a mortar & pestle and mash into a paste.

• Add the hot potato and mash with a fork or the pestle.  Add yolks, combine well and gradually stream in half the olive oil while mixing.

• Continue mixing while streaming in hot liquid.

• Stream in remaining olive oil.  Season to taste with Esplette.

Rock Shrimp and Vegetable Soup with Vadouvan Curry

Warm rainy days remind me of the summer I spent cooking in southeast Asia where light flavorful soups got me through many a damp, humid afternoon.  In Provence, soupe au pistou is the classic vegetable soup with macaroni, potatoes, onions, fennel and haricots verts, among others, with a dollop of bright basil pistou stirred in.  Instead of basil, this version uses cilantro and citrus, as well as Vadouvan curry and rock shrimp to take the soup ‘from Provence to Bangkok’ as Dr. France commented when I made it for lunch the other day.  Feel free to improvise with the garnishes—just make sure to add anything green at the end so it doesn’t lose its color from the acidity.

Difficulty: Easy-Moderate

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 25 minutes

Serves 4-6

 

Ingredients:

2 Tbsp. extra virgin olive oil

½ white onion, diced

½ fennel bulb, diced

1 garlic clove, finely diced

1 medium shallot, diced

4 cups chicken stock

3 cups water

2 Tbsp. Vadouvan curry

1 bay leaf

1 ½ cups peeled, diced Yukon potatoes (½” cubes)

¾ cup Israeli couscous

1 pound rock shrimp, rinsed and patted dry

1 ½ cups (¼ lb) haricots verts, 1” pieces

3 scallions, thinly sliced (white & light green parts)

zest of ½ lemon

juice of 1 lemon

zest of 1 lime

juice of 2 limes

¼ cup cilantro chiffonade

2 Tbsp. parsley chiffonade

sea salt & pepper

Technique:

• In a large, high-rimmed sauté pan over medium heat, sweat onion, fennel, garlic and shallots in olive oil until nearly tender (5-7 minutes).  Add chicken stock, water, Vadouvan, and bay leaf; bring to a boil, add potatoes and Israeli couscous, and simmer until tender (10 minutes).
  

  

• Meanwhile, bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil and blanche haricots verts until tender but still firm (about 3 minutes).  Chill in ice water and drain.
• When potatoes are tender, turn off heat and add seasoned shrimp.  Allow to cook for 3-4 minutes, stirring gently until cooked through.  Add haricots verts, scallions, citrus zest and juice.
  
  
• Season to taste, add fresh herbs and serve hot.