VISIT: Arles & La Camargue
- This famous Provençal city is filled with Roman ruins that have been so well preserved that many are still used today for concerts and bullfights. Small museums and Romanesque churches dot the streets of the old city. The Alyscamps (ancient necropolis) was once as famous as the Appian Way, though modern claims to fame focus on Van Gogh and the Gypsy Kings.
- Camargue, center of rice and salt production in Provence, is a short drive from Arles. A massive estuary of wetlands on the Rhône (river) delta, on a good day you’ll see wild white horses, birds, and maybe even some flamingos.
SEE:
- Centre-Ville, Place de la République
Take a walking tour through this area to see the many historical monuments from Roman theaters and arenas, to museums and medieval churches. From July through September is the annual photography festival, Les Rencontres Photographie, with over 60 expositions around the city.
- The old Arles hospital that housed Van Gogh has a beautiful garden.
- The Saturday market is held next to the Roman theater, with stalls lining a full avenue until early afternoon. Pick up souvenirs such as spices, sea salt from Camargue, tablecloths, or picnic snacks.
- Market picnic: fougasse d’Arles (bread), tapenade, cheese, fruits; or for breakfast, Jesuite pastries are particularly delicious.
- Souleiado: 10 Boulevard des Lices, 13200 Arles
The original Provençal linen factory is now a museum outside of town, but the small shop on the market street sells the most authentic, elaborate Provençal tablecloths (as well as clothing). - Musée de la Camargue, Mas du Pont de Rousty 13200 Arles
Museum dedicated to life in the Rhone delta, focuses on country life in the 19th-21st century from farming, hunting and fishing to the production of sea salt, wine and rice growing.
STAY:
- Grand Hotel Nord Pinus, 14 Place du Forum 13200 Arles
The place du Forum is a happening square filled with casual cafes, including the hotel’s restaurant; adjacent side streets are full of small shops.
- L’Hotel Particulier, 4 Rue de la Monnaie 13200 Arles
Luxury hotel in a XVIII century restored mansion.
EAT:
- L’Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel / Bistrot ‘A Coté’, 21 Rue des Carmes 13200 Arles
Whether you want to go gastro-fancy or bistro-casual, these sister restaurants are a sure bet for refined Provencal flavors. Rabanel is well respected in the city—asking around to find the street got us lots of thumbs up and even a couple recommendations on what to order. I was glad we ate at the bistro, which has a 3-course daily pre-fixe for around 30€ (looked great on the neighboring table) but we went for lobster, lamb chops and braised beef cheeks with ravioles du Royans: outstanding. Love the rustic cast-iron presentations. Reserve ahead.
- La Chassagnette, Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles
Only 15-20 minutes from Arles, this 1-Michelin star restaurant from Chef Armand Arnal, alumnus of both Restaurant Daniel and Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, is a beautiful oasis in the vast Camargue. Local Provençal ingredients, many of which are grown on site in their gardens, are combined with occasional asian flavors, and an optional sake pairing inspired by his time spent in Japan. Best dishes: Camargue crayfish with carrots, daurade with chanterelles. Reserve ahead.
Miel et Lavande 