Avignon (Vaucluse) PROVENCE

VISIT:  Avignon

• A true capital of Provence and once an important trade route, Avignon is situated at the confluence of the Rhône and Durance rivers.  The city’s claim to fame began in the 14^th century with the Great Schism, when the seat of the papacy moved from Rome to Avignon.  The fortified city walls merely hint at the staggering scale of the largest gothic palace in Europe, and the imposing holy see that inhabited it.  Nowadays, much of the annual action happens during the 4-week Festival d’Avignon in July when the city turns into one big theater district; hundreds of plays are put on daily from company productions to one-man-shows.
  

SEE:

• Palais des Papes, Papal Gardens, Pont Saint-Benezet, Les Halles d’Avignon
  The Gothic residence of 7 early-Renaissance popes, the massive holy palace is worth touring, as is the panoramic view from the papal gardens, despite the many steps required to see it.
  

• Follow the river around to see the remains of the medieval Saint-Benezet bridge and fortified city walls.  Everyday except Monday, check out Les Halles, the indoor food market of all local specialties from wine and cheese to olive oils and honey.
  

STAY/EAT:

• La Mirande, 4 Place de l’Amirande, 84000 Avignon
  This beautifully restored hotel is a luxurious flashback to la belle époque with ornately decorated salons fit for receiving royals or enjoying an eccentric afternoon tea.  The restaurant is one of the most reputed in the city, and the garden terrace is a perfect spot for a leisurely luncheon.
  

EAT:

• L’Essentiel, 2 Rue Petite Fusterie, 84000 Avignon
  This family-run establishment will not disappoint.  Locals and tourists alike flock for the excellent and reasonably priced lunch pre-fixe menu.  Generous portions make it possible to call one main course a meal, but it’s not an easy choice.  The high-walled stone courtyard in the back is a calming break from the bustling streets of the city, especially during the hectic summer festival.
  

• Festival des Glaces, 2 Rue de la République, 84000 Avignon
  This mega-patisserie is the place to get your sugar-fix.  Choose from 6 cases of gelato flavors such as Tarte Citron or Caramel Beurre Salé.
  

Arles & La Camargue, PROVENCE

VISIT: Arles & La Camargue

• This famous Provençal city is filled with Roman ruins that have been so well preserved that many are still used today for concerts and bullfights.  Small museums and Romanesque churches dot the streets of the old city.  The Alyscamps (ancient necropolis) was once as famous as the Appian Way, though modern claims to fame focus on Van Gogh and the Gypsy Kings.
• Camargue, center of rice and salt production in Provence, is a short drive from Arles.  A massive estuary of wetlands on the Rhône (river) delta, on a good day you’ll see wild white horses, birds, and maybe even some flamingos.
  

SEE:

• Centre-Ville, Place de la République
  Take a walking tour through this area to see the many historical monuments from Roman theaters and arenas, to museums and medieval churches.  From July through September is the annual photography festival, Les Rencontres Photographie, with over 60 expositions around the city.
  
• The old Arles hospital that housed Van Gogh has a beautiful garden.
• The Saturday market is held next to the Roman theater, with stalls lining a full avenue until early afternoon.  Pick up souvenirs such as spices, sea salt from Camargue, tablecloths, or picnic snacks.
  
  • Market picnic: fougasse d’Arles (bread), tapenade, cheese, fruits; or for breakfast, Jesuite pastries are particularly delicious.
  • Souleiado: 10 Boulevard des Lices, 13200 Arles
    The original Provençal linen factory is now a museum outside of town, but the small shop on the market street sells the most authentic, elaborate Provençal tablecloths (as well as clothing).
  • Musée de la Camargue, Mas du Pont de Rousty 13200 Arles
    Museum dedicated to life in the Rhone delta, focuses on country life in the 19^th-21^st century from farming, hunting and fishing to the production of sea salt, wine and rice growing.

STAY:

• Grand Hotel Nord Pinus, 14 Place du Forum 13200 Arles
  The place du Forum is a happening square filled with casual cafes, including the hotel’s restaurant; adjacent side streets are full of small shops.
  
• L’Hotel Particulier, 4 Rue de la Monnaie 13200 Arles

Luxury hotel in a XVIII century restored mansion.

EAT:

• L’Atelier Jean-Luc Rabanel / Bistrot ‘A Coté’, 21 Rue des Carmes 13200 Arles
  Whether you want to go gastro-fancy or bistro-casual, these sister restaurants are a sure bet for refined Provencal flavors.  Rabanel is well respected in the city—asking around to find the street got us lots of thumbs up and even a couple recommendations on what to order.   I was glad we ate at the bistro, which has a 3-course daily pre-fixe for around 30€ (looked great on the neighboring table) but we went for lobster, lamb chops and braised beef cheeks with ravioles du Royans: outstanding.  Love the rustic cast-iron presentations.  Reserve ahead.
  
• La Chassagnette, Le Sambuc, 13200 Arles
  Only 15-20 minutes from Arles, this 1-Michelin star restaurant from Chef Armand Arnal, alumnus of both Restaurant Daniel and Alain Ducasse at the Essex House, is a beautiful oasis in the vast Camargue.  Local Provençal ingredients, many of which are grown on site in their gardens, are combined with occasional asian flavors, and an optional sake pairing inspired by his time spent in Japan.  Best dishes: Camargue crayfish with carrots, daurade with chanterelles.  Reserve ahead.
  
  

Les Baux de Provence (Bouches-du-Rhône)

VISIT:

• Visit Les Baux de Provence for the incredible topography, rocky cliffs and lush valleys filled with olive groves and vineyards.  With two gorgeous 5-star hotels and Michelin starred restaurants, this is the perfect home-base from which to visit nearby cities of Avignon, Arles, Nimes, Aix-en-Provence.

SEE:

• Chateau des Baux, Les Baux-de-Provence, 13520
  Medieval fortress with massive ruins, weaponry, and stunning panoramic views of the region.  Visualize life in the days of lords, ladies, minstrels and troubadours.  A must see…
  
  

STAY: 

• La Cabro d’Or, Route d’Arles
 13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
• Oustau de Baumanière, 13520 Les Baux de Provence
  Both hotels owned and operated by the Charial family (Jean-Andre & Genevieve) whose gracious, hospitable presence keeps every detail in top form.  The staff was incredibly helpful with regional restaurant and touring advice.  Extra special thanks to our resident tour guide, William!

• La Cabro d’Or is more moderately priced and family oriented, while Oustau is a bit fancier and better suited to couples seeking a romantic getaway.  The two hotels are a 5-minute drive apart and share an incredible state-of-the-art SPA.  Visit the entire grounds at La Cabro d’Or to see the vegetable gardens, baby goats and the swan pond.
  

EAT: 

• Restaurant Oustau de Baumanière
  2 Michelin stars; indulge in lunch or dinner here for an extraordinary, memorable meal on the stunning terrace under the trees, surrounded by rocky cliffs and the best food in the region.  The elaborate house-made bread selection is only the beginning… Reserve ahead.
  
  

• Restaurant La Cabro d’Or
  1 Michelin Star; slightly more casual alternative to Oustau, and their tree-shaded terrace is the perfect place to enjoy a light breakfast or a romantic dinner.  The chef’s attention to detail is everywhere, from the afternoon poolside lunch that puts any ‘all-day-dining’ menu to shame, to the incredible tasting menu at night… Reserve ahead.
  

• Le Café des Baux, Rue du Trencat, 13520, Les Baux de Provence
  An upscale café down the cobblestone path from the Chateau where Chef Pierre Walter, an award winning pastry chef, serves 3 levels of pre-fixe menus.  The lavender crème brûlée is outstanding! Reserve ahead for peak seatings.